This wine is always about the aromatics. They float from the glass. There is an amalgam of red fruits - cherry and kirsch - with cloves, mace, fennel and anise. Yes, the Chinese five spice is all here. As is the vineyard’s characteristic minerals and citric acidity. It is smooth on the palate - old vines, some time in bottle in the cold Burgundian cellars - with a plush, silky feel. It is not a big wine